Four new Uber chronographs show that complications still have a lot to offer
The watch goes far beyond the classic start/stop/reset function and brings a novel way of timing events.
The idea for this post came true after we first encountered the new MB&F Legacy Sequential EVO a few weeks ago. Looking at this ultra-complex yet impressively intuitive and practical chronograph officially launched today, let's take a look back at the new chronographs for 2022. That's why we found out that there are indeed some pretty impressive models lurking in the stopwatch realm. Classic chronographs are designed to time events. However, these chronographs do much more than that. They either have vastly improved technical features, or have a whole new way of displaying elapsed time - or all at once! Yes, the chronograph is still one of the most important complications and will always be!
Basically, a chronograph is a watch equipped with an additional function that can measure elapsed time. Stopwatch, if you will. The duration of the event can be timed on demand, with additional hands placed on the dial that can be started, stopped and zeroed. Most chronographs can time events from about 1/4 second to 12 hours (except, of course, high frequency chronographs and watches that can measure longer durations). Fundamentally, chronographs do only one thing: they measure the duration of an event or the duration between two events.
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However, there are many additional mechanical functions that can be added to a chronograph. Think flyback or "retour en vol" functions, rattrapante or split-seconds, and just about anything a talented watchmaker can think of... This year, we've received some impressive new chronograph models, They are single events that are far beyond the scope of traditional measurements. Trust us, all of these watches have what it takes to win a Chronograph award at the 2022 GPHG (and for some, even a Mechanical Exception Award).
CZAPEK ANTARCTIQUE RATTRAPANTE ICE BLUE In all fairness, this is just a split-seconds chronograph – yes, I just said it – but for the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante, it’s not the complexity that matters, it’s the way the movement is constructed. Often considered the ultimate chronograph for watch lovers, the split-seconds watch offers the ultimate in mechanical sophistication and exceptional functionality. When you know a little about the construction of a split-seconds chronograph in the traditional way, you definitely want this movement to be visible at all times. That's exactly what Czapek did with its Antarctique Rattrapante, featuring a completely inverted movement with the entire chronograph and split-seconds mechanism on the dial side. The result is impressive, technical and modern execution, but still uses traditional construction including two column wheels, many levers and springs, a horizontal clutch and a pair of clips to activate the rattrapante function. To make it even better, it's a single pusher.
Best of all, this remarkable movement SXH6 designed with Chronode is automatic and housed in a versatile sports watch for everyday use and even 120m water resistance for leisure activities. There's no doubt that the view through the caseback looks a bit simple, but when the side of the dial looks so complicated, it really doesn't matter anymore.
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42.5mm Stainless Steel Case - Sapphire Crystal - 120M Water Resistance - Proprietary Movement SXH6 (Manufactured in Partnership with Chronode), Self-Winding, 28,800 Vph, 60-Hour Power Reserve, Split Seconds Monopusher Chronograph - Stainless Steel Bracelet – Ice Blue Limited Edition.
JACOB & CO. Jean Bugatti Tourbillon Chronograph
Jacob & Co. is known for making polarized watches (to say the least). But behind the craziness of the design, there is a proper watchmaking aptitude and often a very complicated movement that really deserves attention. Jacob's latest creation, the Jean Bugatti Tourbillon Chronograph, is on the more classic side of the brand, at least visually. Mechanically, that's another story. It's not even about the double tourbillon adjustment; it's more about the chronograph and the way it displays elapsed time. It's nothing like anything we've seen so far. Gone are the traditional small registers. Here, the chronograph indicator takes center stage, with a pair of retrograde hands in the center of the dial showing the tens and ones. The elapsed minutes are displayed digitally on the jumping disc through a hole between the two tourbillons. In contrast to this unique central double retrograde chronograph display, the time indication is placed on the periphery.
Behind this complex display is a stunning movement with two distinct, separate chronograph bases: one for the chronograph and one for the time indication. The first was dedicated to chronographs, regulated by a high-frequency 5 Hz balance wheel and driven by its own dedicated barrel. The second drives the peripheral time indication and is regulated by two tourbillons. Power is provided by three barrels. The chronograph is a completely separate mechanism; the stop function consists of preventing the balance wheel from driving the chronograph. Overall, it contains no less than 470 components, including 92 gems. The view through the case back is mesmerizing...
46mm 18k White Gold or Rose Gold Case - Sapphire Crystal - 30m Water Resistance - Caliber Jacob & Co. JCFM09, Manual Winding, Two 3Hz Tourbillons, 5Hz Chronograph Regulator, 48 Hours Power Reserve, with Central High Frequency Chronograph Double Retrograde Seconds and Jumping Digital Minutes - Leather Strap.
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